TBDC / 2025
Product Photography & Lighting Guide — Beverage Campaign

TUBORG
GREEN

11-shot cinematic product campaign. Sony FX3. Green screen. Studio tabletop. Behind the scenes decoded into a replicable shooting system.
Sony FX3 Green Screen Softbox Key Beverage Tabletop Studio 120fps Slowmo Macro Liquid FX
01 / GEAR
Kit & Setup Overview
Camera
Sony FX3
Cinema body. Full-frame sensor. 12.1MP stills + 4K/120fps video. Tethered to field monitor via HDMI.
Support
Heavy Fluid Tripod
Manfrotto-style legs + fluid head. Locked off for all shots. Arm attachment for inverted overhead setup.
Monitor
5" HDMI Field Monitor
On articulating arm/secondary stand. Used for live shot review and focus confirmation without moving to camera.
Background
Chroma Green Paper Sweep
Saturated chromakey green. Doubles as product color echo + fills shadow side of bottles with ambient green bounce.
Key Light
Large Oval Softbox
Camera-right at 45°. White face. Creates specular highlights on wet glass and rim-lights the pour stream.
Background Light
Green LED Strip
Laid flat at base of sweep, angled upward. Saturates background and gives bottles their backlit green glow.
Shooting Surface
White Seamless Sweep Table
White surface, tabletop height. Provides clean product platform and reflects soft fill up from below.
Styling Kit
Dropper + Spoon + Spray Bottle
Dropper for controlled splash. Spoon for foam sculpting. Spray bottle (water/glycerin mix) for condensation FX.
Optional
Macro Lens / Extension Tubes
Required for cap, bubble, and label texture shots. Min. 1:1 magnification ratio recommended.
Base Camera Settings
4K / 24fps base 120fps for action f/1.4 – f/5.6 range 1/50 – 1/4000s ISO 800 – 3200 S-Log3 / flat profile
02 / LIGHTING
Architecture & Diagram
Top-Down Studio Layout — Not To Scale
CHROMA GREEN BACKDROP WHITE SWEEP TABLE ▲ GREEN LED STRIP (floor, bouncing upward) BOTTLES SOFTBOX KEY / FILL 45° CAM-RIGHT SONY FX3 TRIPOD CAM — OVERHEAD FIELD MON. SHOOTER → Green light Softbox rays Camera sight line
Key / Fill — Camera Right
Large Oval Softbox
Positioned at ~45° camera-right. Creates specular highlights on wet glass curves and rim-lights the pour stream. Used across all shots except overhead setup.
Background Accent — Floor Level
Green LED Strip
Laid flat at the base of the sweep, aimed upward. Saturates the BG and gives bottles their backlit green glow in Shots 01, 02, 06, 09.
Ambient Bounce — BG Paper
Chroma Green Reflection
The green paper itself acts as a massive green fill reflector. No additional green light needed — the BG bounces naturally into the shadow side of each bottle.
Fill — Camera Left (Optional)
White Card / Reflector
Subtle fill on camera-left. Maintains label readability in shadow. For overhead shots (04–05), position above and slightly to the side.
03 / SHOTS
Shot List & Camera Notes
01
Bottle cluster — low front angle, label reveal
ECU / Product Hero
Camera
  • Low angle, lens roughly eye-level with the label zone
  • Long telephoto: 85–135mm equiv for heavy compression
  • f/1.4–f/2.0 — razor thin DOF, foreground bottles bokeh'd
  • Hero bottle dead center, slightly forward of cluster
Staging
  • 5–6 Tuborg bottles in a loose cluster arrangement
  • Green screen fills entire background
  • Water droplets applied to all bottles (glycerin mix)
  • Background bottles become saturated green bokeh orbs
The compressed background bottles become abstract green bokeh — the chroma key paper reads as pure color, not environment. This is intentional. Keep the BG slightly underexposed so the green reads rich and deep, not washed out.
85–135mm f/1.4–f/2.0 1/50s (24fps) ISO 1600 Locked tripod
02
Bottle neck / cap — upward tilt reveal
ECU / Detail
Camera
  • Same cluster setup as Shot 01 — no restage needed
  • Reframe upward to emphasize neck, blue label band, and cap
  • Maintain same focal length for visual consistency
  • Hero bottle shifts to occupy upper 2/3 of frame
Styling
  • Refresh water droplets on neck area — they dry quickly
  • Check cap for fingerprints before rolling camera
  • Blue label band should catch specular from key softbox
  • Cap ring and tab should be clean and undeformed
This is your transition shot — from label to cap. If cutting for video, pair this with Shot 01 for a slow upward push or clean cut-on-action. The upward framing implies energy and lift.
85–135mm f/1.4–f/2.0 Reframe only No restage
03
Cap burst — dropper water impact / crown splash
Hero Action / High Shutter
Camera
  • Low angle looking up at the bottle cap
  • Medium telephoto — 85–100mm equiv
  • f/2.8–f/4 for enough DOF to keep splash sharp
  • High shutter: 1/2000–1/4000s to freeze splash
  • Shoot burst mode OR 120fps and pull best frame
Technique
  • Dropper / syringe held 10–15cm above the cap
  • Release single large drop — triggers crown splash shape
  • Shooter triggers camera on dropper release — timing critical
  • Shoot 15–25 takes minimum — need the crown shape
  • Chill bottle first so water beads cleanly on cap surface
The dropper gives you reproducible control over splash size and timing. A syringe from ~12cm creates a consistent crown splash. The green screen behind gives the water a luminous quality when backlit. Shoot 120fps if possible — select the perfect frame in post. Crown shape is everything.
85–100mm f/2.8–f/4 1/2000–1/4000s 120fps preferred Burst mode
04–05
Overhead top-down — cap face: sealed → open
Top-Down / Macro Detail
Camera Position
  • Camera inverted on tripod arm — pointing straight down
  • Macro or 85–100mm + extension tube for tight cap framing
  • f/4–f/5.6 — entire cap face sharp across the circle
  • Shooter holds/positions bottle below camera by hand
  • Camera must be perfectly perpendicular — test with a coin
Shot 04 vs. 05
  • 04: Cap sealed — "Copenhagen Denmark / Tuborg" legible
  • 05: Cap removed — dark bottle mouth, open interior visible
  • Shooter's hand/thumb frames the cap naturally in both
  • Green BG visible in background for visual consistency
  • Keep hand relaxed — tension reads as awkward in frame
The human hand framing the cap adds scale and tactile connection — it subconsciously says "grab this." The peach/orange tones of skin against the green BG create strong natural color contrast. Any tilt in the camera reads immediately against the circular geometry of the cap. Check level before every take.
Macro / 85mm f/4–f/5.6 Overhead mount Inverted tripod arm
06
Beer pour — bottle tilt, liquid cascade close-up
Action / Liquid Motion
Camera
  • Camera at table level — lens axis horizontal
  • Macro or telephoto — liquid stream fills most of frame
  • 120fps minimum — the pour happens fast
  • f/2.8 — liquid sharp, background green soft
  • Large softbox camera-right creates key specular on pour
Setup
  • Shooter tilts bottle toward camera — direct pour to lens
  • Receiving vessel kept OOF in foreground (below frame)
  • Green BG locks the color palette through the sequence
  • Softbox right-to-back lights the liquid stream — amber glow
  • Chill bottle for condensation on glass exterior
Position the softbox so its light passes through the falling pour stream — this is what creates the glowing amber translucency. Side-back lighting through liquid is the defining visual of premium beverage work. Without this, the pour reads flat and dark.
Macro / 85mm f/2.8 1/500s+ (stills) 120fps (video) Horizontal tripod
07–08
Beer bubbles — extreme macro, fill level in glass
Abstract Macro / Texture
Camera
  • Camera horizontal — shooting through the side of the glass
  • Macro lens / extension tube essential
  • f/2.8–f/4 — slight DOF to see bubble depth and clusters
  • Backlit softbox (camera-right) illuminates the amber liquid
  • Expose for the highlights — amber should glow, not blow
Technique
  • Pour beer slowly to minimize excess head at start
  • Shoot immediately — bubbles dissipate within 3–4 minutes
  • Glass must be immaculate — fingerprints kill this shot
  • 07: Full head / maximum bubbles immediately after pour
  • 08: 30–60s later — settled, texture visible, foam finer
The white textured foam against amber liquid is a universally effective beer visual. Shoot both the maximum-head moment and 45 seconds after settling — they read very differently. Give your editor both options. Glass cleanliness is non-negotiable here; even a water spot will show at macro distances.
Macro lens f/2.8–f/4 1/100–1/200s Horizontal rig Backlit setup
09
Branded glass with head — spoon foam sculpting
Hero Product / Branded Glass
Camera
  • Medium angle — glass in left 2/3 of frame
  • Green BG occupies right 1/3 — half-frame split composition
  • 85–100mm, f/2.8 — logo and crown emblem sharp
  • Slight backlight from right gives head texture and translucency
Foam Styling Technique
  • Pour first glass to fill (liquid) — set aside as source
  • Pour second glass lightly — this is the hero glass
  • Use spoon to transfer foam from source glass to hero
  • Smooth crown with the back of the spoon — pub-perfect shape
  • Tuborg branded glass is essential — logo adds authenticity
The spoon foam transfer is a standard food/bev styling technique. Real beer foam deflates — you need a "sacrifice" glass off-camera to harvest from. Work fast: foam life is 2–3 minutes under lights. Have a second pre-poured glass ready. Shoot as soon as the crown is set.
85–100mm f/2.8 1/50s Branded glass required
10–11
Frost bottle — cold condensation, label obscured
Texture / Product Detail
Camera
  • Tripod locked, horizontal — label zone in center frame
  • Slight 3/4 angle to show frost texture and label together
  • 85mm, f/2.8–f/4 — foreground frost sharp, BG green soft
  • Key light rakes across frost surface to reveal ice texture
  • 10: Label partially visible through frost bloom
  • 11: Heavier frost — brand almost fully obscured
How to Create Frost
  • Method A: Freeze bottle solid overnight (remove cap first)
  • Remove from freezer — let sweat 60–90 seconds before shooting
  • Method B: Canned cold/freeze spray for instant controlled burst
  • Spoon water onto frozen surface for controlled condensation runs
  • Work in a cool room — warm studios kill frost in under 2 min
The white frosted bottle against vivid green BG is maximum contrast — this is typically the hero frame for packaging, OOH, and social. A key light at 45° right raking across the frosted surface reveals ice texture dimensionally. The label half-disappearing beneath frost creates intrigue. Shoot within the first 90 seconds after removing from freezer.
85mm f/2.8–f/4 1/50s Frozen bottle req'd 90s window
04 / WORKFLOW
Production Order
1
Prep & chill products
Refrigerate all hero bottles overnight. Freeze 2–3 bottles solid for frost shots (Shots 10–11). Remove caps before freezing. Keep at least 4 room-temp bottles for pour shots — frozen beer won't pour cleanly or consistently.
2
Build the set
Hang or stand the green screen sweep. Lay LED strip at the base of the sweep angled upward. Set the white sweep table. Position the large softbox camera-right at 45°. Mount your field monitor on a secondary stand for live review without walking to camera.
3
Shoot dry bottles first — cluster shots (01–02)
Start with the bottle cluster shots before applying any water. Dry bottles let you dial in exposure, framing, focus, and lens position without time pressure. Lock off your camera position and save the settings. Water comes after the frame is perfect.
4
Apply condensation FX
Mix 60% water / 40% glycerin in a spray bottle. Glycerin makes droplets bead and hold their shape much longer without running. Spray from ~40cm for a fine mist. Use a dropper or brush for hero droplets on the label face. Shoot immediately.
5
Overhead rig — cap shots (04–05)
Reposition the tripod for inverted overhead. Mount camera on the arm or invert the head. Verify the camera is perfectly level — any tilt shows against the circular cap geometry. Do all overhead shots together before moving back to horizontal.
6
Cap splash shot — 120fps (03)
Switch to 120fps. Return to horizontal rig at low angle looking up at the cap. Drop water from the dropper — shoot on release. Repeat 15–20 times until you get a clean crown splash shape. Keep paper towels close — the table will get wet.
7
Pour sequences — macro liquid (06–08)
Keep 120fps engaged. Set up a receiving vessel (glass or bowl) in the foreground, out of frame. Tilt bottle toward the camera for Shot 06 close pour. Then reframe through the side of the glass for Shots 07–08 bubble macro. Have a mop or towels and a waterproof surface layer ready.
8
Branded glass hero — foam sculpting (09)
Return to 24fps. Pour two glasses simultaneously — one hero, one sacrifice. Use the spoon to transfer foam from the sacrifice glass to top the hero glass. Smooth the crown, position, and shoot within 90 seconds. Reset and repeat minimum 3 times for selects.
9
Frost bottle hero (10–11)
Remove frozen bottle from freezer. Let sweat for 60–90 seconds in a cool room. Position and shoot immediately — you have a narrow window before frost melts under studio heat. Rake the key light across the bottle surface to reveal ice texture. Shoot multiple takes with different frost levels.
05 / TIPS
Pro Techniques & Reminders
Glycerin = better droplets
60/40 water-to-glycerin ratio makes droplets bead beautifully and hold without running for 10–15 minutes. Pure water runs immediately under studio lights.
Green screen as fill light
Don't fight the green BG bounce — use it. It naturally fills the shadow side of your bottles with a cool green, making them look ultra-fresh without extra light.
Backlight the pour
Position your softbox so light passes through the falling liquid. Side-backlighting a beer pour creates amber translucency — this is the visual signature of premium beverage advertising.
Crown splash = repeat takes
Budget 15–25 takes for the dropper cap shot. The perfect crown shape is unpredictable. Shoot 120fps and pick your best frame in post — you'll never get it in a single shot.
Frost: 90-second window
Once a frozen bottle leaves the freezer, you have roughly 90 seconds before the frost begins to melt under studio lights. Have your frame pre-locked before you pull the bottle.
Field monitor is essential
A second monitor on an articulating arm lets you check focus and composition without moving to the camera between every take. On liquid and splash shots, this saves huge amounts of time.
Overhead level check
For the cap top-down shots, any camera tilt reads instantly against the circular geometry of the cap. Use your camera's built-in level or a bubble level on the hot shoe. Recheck after every repositioning.
Foam: sacrifice glass method
Always pour two glasses — one hero, one sacrifice. Spoon foam from the sacrifice to the hero to build a perfect crown. Real beer head deflates fast under heat — the second glass is your insurance policy.
Shoot dry, then wet
Always start with dry bottles to lock exposure, framing, and focus without time pressure. Add water/glycerin only once everything is dialed in. You can't undo wet labels or blurred focus.
06 / POST
Color & Editing Notes
Color Grade
Protect the green, push the amber
Keep the chroma green BG fully saturated — it should feel almost over-the-top vibrant. Warm up the amber of the beer liquid with a slight orange push. Cool down the bottle glass glass for contrast. This warm/cool split does most of the work.
Slow Motion
Conform 120fps to 24fps
Conform all 120fps footage to 24fps timeline for 5x slow motion. Use frame interpolation (Twixtor or DaVinci's optical flow) only as a last resort — it artifacts on liquid. Real frame-rate slowdown is always cleaner.
Retouching
Clean labels, enhance droplets
For stills: remove any fingerprints or label wrinkles in Photoshop. Dodging individual water droplets to add a highlight catchlight makes them pop dramatically. Don't add fake droplets — enhance the real ones.
Edit Sequence
Recommended cut order
Open on frost bottle (10–11), cut to cluster shot (01), reveal cap (02), overhead cap (04), burst (03), pour (06), bubbles (07–08), branded glass (09). Front-load texture and product identity; land on the drinking moment last.